Fashion+Research+Paper

"American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity" For centuries, women everywhere have been infatuated with clothes and fashion. American fashion has a unique and symbolic history that many people overlook. The 1900's to present day were filled with changing politics and beliefs, and many fashion trends clearly reflect these sweeping changes. Although fashion may appear of little importance, it is in fact a major reflection of American history and contributor to the feminist movement and the evolution of women in society. How important //has// fashion been in the lives of American women from the 1990s until present day? From the early 1900’s to the 1920’s, women's fashion highlighted the feminine silhouette of the mature, full-figured body. The dress styles of the era revealed low busts and curvy hips, and hemlines were full and to the floor or longer (Oz, Tracey). However, as the decade drew to a close and the First World War approached, fashion began "to move toward slimmer, narrower silhouettes that emphasized flat busts and slim hips" (History of 20th). During the 1920’s, also known as the "flapper era," clothing styles officially entered the modern era of fashion (American Woman). Movies, radio shows, advertising, and magazines became increasingly popular, and greatly influenced the younger generations of the 1920’s. Women grew bolder and began to "liberate themselves from constricting clothes for the first time" (History of 20th) and embraced modern day styles. Short skirts, low hemlines, tight dresses, bobbed hair, silk stockings, heavy makeup, and long beaded necklaces characterized the styles of the flapper era. However, before women became too comfortable, the Great Depression struck in the early 1930’s (American Woman). Many women were forced to work at home to make up for the loss of domestic servants, and this necessitated more practical clothing during the day. Because of this necessity, the "1930’s saw the first true distinction between day and evening styles" (History of 20th). Because of the wartime restrictions of the 1940’s, "longings for elegance and luxury that had been suppressed during the war years began to creep out again with the “New Look” of fashion in the late 1940’s" (Banner, Lois). During this time, "clothing styles emphasized rounded shoulders, full skirts, and narrow waists" (Oz, Tracey). Pricy fabrics and elaborate accessories became essential items instead of superfluous ones. Women throughout the country embraced the renewed femininity of the "New Look" (Banner, Lois). "In the 1960’s and 1970’s, youth throughout the Western world began to rebel against traditional clothing styles and create their own trends" (History of 20th). The music, groups, and T.V. shows of the era all contributed to the "decade that shaped a generation" (American Woman). In the 1970’s, PBS became influential, touching on politics and the civil rights movement. Students protested the Vietnam War, which led to the rise of "Hippies." A huge portion of the younger population “dropped out” of participation in the government, and declared a (mostly) passive war on “the establishment,” becoming what was known as “hippies” or “the counter-culture.” Much was made about living by Nature’s laws rather than the laws of man, and from this anti-establishment movement, eventually came an identifiable fashion trend (History of 20th). The idea was to present a romanticized gypsy look that was not perceived as materialistic, as though the “vintage” pieces had come from grandma’s attic (History of 20th). Fashion has been less important to American women since the end of the New Gilded Age (1980’s). During that era of the fashion-obsessed White House (the Reagans), and the yuppies, fashions were excessive and exaggerated. Everyone closely observed the fashions that came out of Paris, Milan, and New York. However, "after the Wall Street crash of 1987, followed by the Bush recession, excess and exaggerated fashions were rejected by American women" (Hill, Daniel). Some of the Vogue cover stories from 1989 reflect these changes: "Low Cost, High Style," "Dressing for Less," "Less Effort, More Style." (Hill, Daniel). Because of these changes in the mindsets of American women, in the 1990’s, women sought after ease of dressing and comfort. "Styles were softened compared to the padded powersuits and sculpted dresses of the 1980’s" (Hill, Daniel). The term "soft dressing" was used in the 1990’s to describe the unlined jackets and wide legged pants in rayon and silk blends. This demand for ease of dressing and comfort led women to become more independent of any "one look." In the 1990’s, fashion advertisements and editorials emphasized "personal style," and women were encouraged to dress in ways that made them feel comfortable (American Woman). Fashion has not only reflected sweeping political and social changes, but has also influenced the feminist movement. During World War I, because of the need for women in the workforce to replace the men who went off to fight, women wore trousers to work in factories, rail yards, and ship docks. For the first time in a long time, women began to see themselves as an important asset to society in the workforce (Banner, Lois). In the 1920’s, women's legs were exposed to dresses to the knees for the first time since ancient times. This change reflected the advances of women's rights, such as the right to vote in 1920, as well as the sexual revolution. In the 1940’s during the Second World War, women again left their homes to work in factories that required them to wear pants and cut their hair short for safety reasons (Hill, Daniel). The 1950’s actually set back the feminist movement a few steps, "as Dior's "New Look" fashions and a conservative backlash against the war repressed women during this era" (Hill, Daniel). However, the 1960’s brought with it the rise of the "Second Wave Feminists" (Banner, Lois). The birth control pill was introduced in 1960, and the miniskirt reflected the new sexual revolution. The pantsuit mirrored the increasing number of women entering the workforce with college degrees as executives and professionals (Hill, Daniel). Fashion has not only helped shape the feminist movement, but has also changed the way women identify themselves in society. A literal example of this was the "S-bend silhouette of the Edwardian era (1900-1910)" (Oz, Tracey). This corset was restrictive and "reshaped the feminine form into a curvaceous kangaroo stance, pushing the hips back and the bust forward" (Oz, Tracey). Between this corset, the high neck collars, and floor-length dresses, women's movements were very "restrictive," which reflected how women felt and how others perceived them during this time. Another example was in the late 1980’s when "the padded powersuits reflected women's continued struggle to achieve equality with high powered men in the corporate executive suites" (Banner, Lois). From the 1990’s to present day fashion, comfort and expense remain the key factors in clothing choices for teenagers. Jeans, flannel shirts, t-shirts, shorts, skirts, and flat shoes/sandals are some of the acceptable choices for teenagers today. The changes in fashion from the 1990’s until today can be seen as both positive and negative. While some conservative critics might oppose short skirts and see-through blouses, "misogynists might argue that women's use of their sexuality as expressed in how they dress is empowering" (Hill, Daniel). However one sees it, everyone can agree that fashion has been extremely important in influencing the feminist movement and women, and in turn shaping the way they are perceived in society.